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Sunday, December 18, 2011

Keller's Deli. A once fertile plot bears fruit again.

UPDATED Sunday, November 4, 2012

You may remember when South Union Bakery Cafe started off in a shared space with Boesen The Florist on the northeast corner of Seventh and Grand.

After South Union relocated to the Masonic Temple building, The Funky Pickle operated there for a few years until it closed at the end of 2010.

The space sat fallow for months until October when Keller’s Deli recultivated the location, now sans Boesen. Not one to take lunch breaks during the workday, I never had the opportunity to see what crop had sprouted there until recently.

Having read a reference to the homemade beef and pork meatloaf in Jim Duncan’s Food Dude column in cityview, I knew in what direction my stomach would lead.

The thick slice of meatloaf is tender, delicious, and replete with diced carrot and onion. Throw in caramelized onions, a sweet, ketchupy apple cider vinegar tomato sauce, all served between slices of Keller’s artisan French bread, and it’s a fine sandwich indeed.

The jalapeño creamed corn is nothing like the canned variety that plagues the grocery shelf. Boasting intact kernels with minced jalapeño in a milky cream sauce, the texture is toothy and the flavor is zesty but approachable to the average palate.

The mac and cheese is delightful! Penne pasta is a pleasant surprise, and a scant of garlic gives the dish a unique, pleasing flavor while not being overt. They should sell it by the pint or quart. I'd easily make a meal of this.

On another visit I tried the grilled cheese with a side of baked beans. Laden with swiss, cheddar and provolone on toasty artisan bread spread with a roasted garlic and parmesan butter. A bite of pickle spear tempers the richness. The homey beans remind me of the jarred B&M brand I was so fond of growing up, with a light sweet finish.

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