You all probably know I'm a big fan of Angelo's Pizza's new location on E. 14th [see blog post]. I had previously visited their small, no-nonsense digs in West Des Moines in 2011 where I enjoyed their toasty open-face Italian grinder.
The grinder has become the E. 14th location's most popular lunch item. With a choice of side it's a quick and satisfying meal for the hordes of State office workers streaming over from the Capitol Complex dragging themselves through the negro streets at noon looking for an angry fix (apologies to Carl Solomon). With Angelo's prime location, they likely give nearby Kelly's Little Nipper's gargantuan grinder a run for the money [see blog post].
On revisiting the sandwich at E. 14th I found all the aspects that made me swoon over the earlier grinder remained true. The toasty Vienna-style bread, the mozzarella and banana peppers, and of course the abundant Italian sausage/ground beef mixture. So much so that I had to spoon up quite a bit off the waxed paper.
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What's really noteworthy about this visit was the side of baked beans I requested. Laden with molasses, brown sugar and bacon, the beans are thick, rich, sweet, dark and delicious. I envision some kind of heavenly picnic where only the most optimal of sides could grace a checkerboard-clothed table bathed in ethereal light. These beans garner a star place, right next to Keller's mac and cheese [see blog post], and Ted's Coney Island cole slaw [see blog post]. UPDATE: The beans at the new location are not as noteworthy.
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