Jake may hate Illinois Nazis, but I love the pizza!

UPDATE: In November 2013, Angelo's moved from 13th & Grand in West Des Moines to nearby 1238 8th St. and rebranded itself as Angelo's on 8th which has since closed.

If you can get past the inflammatory moniker, the Illinois Nazi served at Angelo's Pizza in West Des Moines is a sight to behold.

The crisp crust, with nice spots of char on the underside, is loaded down with sauerkraut, chunky summer sausage, and deli-thin ham. The aroma of the kraut is intoxicating. Its bright, vinegary bite is a nice counterpoint to the meats. The only addition I could possibly ask for would be a scattering of caraway seed. It’s not a criticism, just food for thought.

Angelo’s eschews the typical hoagie roll for their Italian grinder in favor of a big, soft, toasted half-loaf of Vienna-style bread. Each bite sports a mouthful of soft bread, a savory blend of ground beef and Italian sausage, vinegary banana peppers, and gooey mozzarella. Easily one of the best grinders in town.

Served with your choice of side, I opted for onion rings. Battered not breaded, crisp with no hint of sogginess, a few overdone.

If eating in, take a gander at the vintage colored vinyl collection upon the walls, especially if you're a Joan Jett fan.