A competent fast-food burger at Five Guys Burgers and Fries.

On a recent day-trip to Omaha I passed on lunch in the Old Market so I could splurge on a meal at Five Guys Burgers and Fries that evening.

I appreciated the atmosphere inside: laid back but not hipster lazy. Boxes of peanuts and peanut oil and sacks of potatoes are stacked out in the dining area to form a quirky divider between the waiting-to-order line and the dining area. Five Guys uses peanut oil for their French fries, and offer complementary peanuts roasted-in-the-shell for hungry patrons patiently waiting for their made-to-order burgers. If you have a peanut allergy, you might want to consider Fatburger on N. 114th instead.

A burger at Five Guys is a two-patty affair. For smaller appetites, a one-patty Little Burger is offered. Bacon and cheese are your primary add-ons plus a plethora of toppings including not-so-ordinary items such as relish, jalapeños, green peppers, A.1. sauce, BBQ sauce and hot sauce.

I ordered up a cheeseburger (double-patty) with everything (mayo, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes, grilled onions and mushrooms, ketchup and mustard). What a delicious, messy treat; expect some droppage. The burgers were juicy even though well done.

A superior sandwich for a fast-food burger chain, even better than In-N-Out, IMHO. Sure it's hard to beat an In-N-Out burger with Animal sauce and a thick slice of onion – grilled too if you ask – but how about a Five Guys burger with grilled mushrooms and A.1. sauce?

My lone gripe is the sliced American cheese. It had an unappetizingly pale color and muted flavor… mind you we're not talking about cheese here but a processed cheese product. I know I'm quibbling, but given a revisit I'll stick with a gob of mayo.

Skin-on fries are deeply browned and seasoned well. Supremely tatery, hot and ready to enjoy.

Against better judgment I ordered up a bacon cheese dog. It appealed to my obese inner child. The all-beef dog is split, grilled, and served on a soft, stick to the top of your mouth bun. The bacon is crispy, as nature intended.

If Five Guys ever makes it way to the Des Moines metro – and is conveniently located – I'll seek it out. I wont rush to it though; the lines will be horrendous for a few weeks.